Simply delicioso, Latin Style
 
 
August 25, 2007
 

Ingrid Hoffmann, the latest arrival on the Food Network — her show “Simply Delicioso” is shown on Saturday mornings — seems to be quickly staking her claim as the country’s pre-eminent cleavage cook.

A native of Colombia and a Miami retailer and restaurateur, Ms. Hoffmann is all tight fits and high heels. No chef’s clogs for her. Giada De Laurentiis, the granddaughter of the producer Dino De Laurentiis and host of two shows of her own on the network (“Everyday Italian” and “Giada’s Weekend Getaways”), is merely a good-looking woman with a mortar and pestle in comparison.

Ms. Hoffmann cooks with her whole body, as if every occasion to chop some cilantro were also an opportunity to show how well she might fare as a backup dancer for Rod Stewart. She appears less covered up to marinate a chicken than Ms. De Laurentiis does to go jet-skiing.

Though I count among my acquaintances a number of very attractive women who really know their way around a saucier, “Simply Delicioso” has not convinced me that Ms. Hoffmann would be one of them. In one episode, in which she produced what she considered a “mousse” out of whipped cream and condensed milk, she also made something else from ingredients, no two of which I’d ever consider in concert: a shrimp dish with brandy and ketchup.

It is a hallmark of the contemporary cooking show, of course, that no failures are acknowledged. “Wow, I must have overdone this pork loin because it tastes like an old Volkswagen”: that is the sort of comment we never hear emanating from TV kitchens. But even in this context, Ms. Hoffmann’s self-regard is annoyingly hardy. It isn’t simply that she finds fault with nothing. She finds everything she makes uniquely amazing, “yummy” and “delicioso.” And yet it appears to the viewer as mediocre takeout.

Ms. Hoffmann specializes in Latin fusion, ethnic food from which any real sense of ethnicity has been stripped. Her set, a cheerful lime-green kitchen gleaming with chrome, seems never to have opened its door to a pig’s foot. The Food Network’s Web site tells us that Ms. Hoffmann learned to cook from her mother, who trained at Le Cordon Bleu.

Her fame grew through the world of Spanish-language television, specifically “Despierta América,” a hugely popular morning show on which Ms. Hoffmann had a cooking and style segment. That feature eventually led to her own show, “Delicioso With Ingrid Hoffmann,” last year. The Food Network signed her not long after, and what it seems to want in its effort to capture the Hispanic market is less an authentic treatment of Latin cooking than an air of manufactured ’70s Latin style. You can watch “Simply Delicioso” and almost hear the faint sound of a director signaling Charo.